Kejetia and The View
On Thursday afternoon, Kofi—a guide chosen by Sabrina—took us on a tour of the Kejetia Market. It's known as the largest open-air market in West Africa. Or, as Lonely Planet says:
From afar, the Kejetia Market looks like an alien mothership landed in the centre of Kumasi. Closer up, the rusting tin roofs of this huge market (often cited as the largest in West Africa; there are 11,000 stalls and at least four times as many people working there) look like a circular shantytown. Inside, the throbbing Kejetia is quite disorienting but utterly captivating.
I agree. I only wish I'd worn a GoPro on my walk through the market, because what a video that would have made! But I didn't, so once more I'll rely on someone else's video to provide a sense of our experience:
I did take some photos, but all were taken before or after the tour proper. Thus, none of them captures the claustrophobic thrill of shouldering your way, single file, through a crowded, noisy, bewildering, muddy, smelling-of-fish-guts universe of dark, towering stalls where nearly anything you can imagine—and much that you might not imagine—is bought and sold.
The market is informally divided into regions. Each region has a 'queen mother' who allocates stalls to vendors, settles any pricing disputes that arises, and blesses any wares that may require it. In this way, order is maintained amid the chaos.
That night was our last in Kumasi, and our last in Sabrina's company, so the four of us celebrated with dinner at The View Bar and Grill, which is generally agreed to be the best restaurant in the city.
It's called The View because of the vistas available from its dining room:
A view from The View.
Another view from The View.
The restaurant is located on the third floor of the building that houses the restaurant. It's the floor blazing with light in the photograph below.
The other illuminated part of the building is the elevator shaft. We rode the elevator—elegant, but cramped —to and from the dining room. In other words, we took an unnecessary, stupid risk. Remember dumsor? Remember how I'm mildly claustrophobic? Well, dumsor struck the building that night - but only during dinner, which meant we got to eat a portion of our meal by starlight. We were lucky; it did not strike during either of our elevator rides.